Kensington Grows, Cooks, & Blogs: An Interview with Sunny Phanthavong of Vientiane Bistro

By Matt Hilferty

Interfaith Philadelphia launched the Crafting Community Project in Kensington in the Fall of 2020. Through this neighborhood-rooted art and education initiative, we collaborated with organizations, faith communities, and neighbors to launch the Kensington Grows, Cooks, and Serves, a multi-part series exploring the intersections of food, faith, and culture within the Kensington area. One component of this initiative is a blog interview series highlighting Kensington-based restaurants and grocers who demonstrate understanding, community-centeredness, and the celebration of diversity. For this final installment in the series, we sat down with Sunny Phanthavong from Vientiane Bistro.

1. Tell us a little about your business. (e.g. Where are you located? When did you open? What do you serve/sell?)

Vientiane Bistro is a Lao and Thai restaurant that opened in September 2018 at 2537 Kensington Avenue. We serve curries, noodle dishes, and fried rice along with appetizers like dumplings, spring rolls, and grilled chicken skewers.

2. What inspired you to start your business? For example, did you grow up eating this type of food at home and decide to share it with the community?

I was inspired by working with my mother as she started her own food business in the ‘90s. In West Philly, she sold food from out of our home, and opened up her storefront business in 2002 on Baltimore Avenue. We were really a family business, and at that point it was still a tough neighborhood. In 2017, I asked my mom if I could open up another store to do my own thing. She gave me her blessing and said, “Go, for it, I’m not going to hold you back.” So that’s what I did.

The reason we chose Kensington for the new store is because my partner grew up here. It’s kind of like him bringing back this vibe of a small restaurant to the community where he grew up. When I see people enjoying their first bite of these dishes, it reminds me why we’re doing what we do. Seeing the enjoyment that our food brings to people reminds me of how I felt eating these foods as a child.

3. What values are important to you and your business?

A big value is keeping the Lao culture alive by following the recipes that my family has handed down. Loyalty is huge, especially in terms of our customers and the relationships we have with them, especially during the pandemic. Another two values that we were reminded of through the pandemic are integrity and resilience, both of which kept us strong in the face of the unknown.

4. In what way does your business help foster understanding and promote community relationships?

Because my partner grew up in Kensington and I grew up in West Philly, we know what it is like to grow up in tough neighborhoods. We chose Kensington because we knew that the restaurant would bring positive opportunities back to the community. 

Now, kids can celebrate their birthdays and families can celebrate in a really nice setting. Our restaurant is decorated beautifully. It gives the community hope that places like Kensington, and all communities, can have really nice things. Plus, our menu is affordable enough that a family doesn’t have to break the bank just to get delicious, healthy food. We always use fresh ingredients and vegetables. We’re able to bring back a nice, healthy option for dining out in the community.

5. What is your favorite item on your menu or in your stock?

My favorite item is the Naam Lettuce Wrap. This is a menu item that I had to beg my mom to put onto our menu back in West Philly as making it is a labor-intensive process. It’s fried rice that is marinated in coconut curry, and then deep-fried. After that, it is crumbled up with spices, flavorings, and fresh herbs; cilantro, scallions, and crushed peanuts. Then, we put it into a lettuce cup. It’s like a flavor explosion of crunchy, sweet, sour, and savory.

6. What food or types of food are meaningful for you? Is that food connected to a faith, religious, or spiritual practice/value? If yes, how? 

In terms of religion, the Lao culture is predominantly Buddhist. There are certain foods we once had only around holidays, some being religious, weddings, and celebrations, including the Naam Lettuce Wrap.

7. Why do you believe that sharing food and eating together is an important practice? How is it related to sharing culture, faith, and community?

I emphasize to my children the importance of coming together at the dinner table to talk about your day and what's going on around the world. I think that food itself can bring people together regardless of their religious background or culture, and every family brings those conversations up around food in some way. That’s why neighborhood restaurants are so important; the food they serve brings people together.

8. What do you love most about living/working in the neighborhood?

I love connecting with people through our food. Many people come in and try Lao food for the first time and they love it, which I love to see. I miss the days before the pandemic when we would see the regulars and new people enjoying the food. However, it's been really cool to see online reviews, where people have been showing a lot of love. It's sort of the virtual way for me to see our customers enjoying Lao food.

Photo: Crispy Naam Lettuce Wraps made by Sunny at Vientiane